Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Roll Mops in Cleveland

If you're ever in Cleveland go check out The Greenhouse Tavern. Chef Jonathan Sawyer opened this vinegary oasis in Cleveland 2 yrs ago with the local community at the top of his list.  At the beginning of the week, Sawyer was battling Iron Chef Zakarian in a duel over mint in Kitchen Stadium.  He lost by a hair but that mint parfait with that chocolate dirt stoner sandwich will live on.

Our co. manager Kit looked up a good spot to have our closing night party. She told me I'd be happy with the selection. Oh, And I was...we were to sample most of their menu...including their BBQ roasted pigs head served with brioche buns to assemble pulled pork. or the sloppy Jo-Nut. Imagine the perfect homemade sloppy-Joe meat inside a big savory zepolli donut with a little douse of their smoky sezchuany homemade BBQ sauce.

Surprisingly, or maybe not, there's good food in Cleveland. From Michael Symons influence, from the more upscale Lolita's to his 'BSpot which is a salute to the way people in Cleveland eat. the fried bologna sandwich there brings me back to when my mom, Chef Pisegna, would serve these up after school on white bread with ketchup.

even the restaurants that aren't boarded up, its hard to find anything open before 4. most don't stay open past 10, its odd. I think it's a city that revolves around the Cavs schedule. or sports here in general.  I ordered the lamb burger with fonduta cheese (add cream to Fontina cheese and you get fonduta...this nice spreadable, slightly stinky cheese that goes great with any burger. and olive dusted fries with yogurt dip. The side of spicy chili braised greens and cannelloni beans is a perfect side flavor. I washed it all down with some good gingery beer.



This morning I headed to Cleveland's West Side Market...and I got a free breakfast out if. The vendors don't seem to mind you eating a whole orange or half a banana if they can see your reaction or try and throw you the best deal. In the first aisle I was full on just grapefruit and orange samples. except for the Jew. he walked away with a half pomegranate and the vendor woman said 'now thats too much'





It was built for what it still is-a town marketplace in the 1840's. You can spot it from the large clock tower that sticks out of the Ohio City section of Cleveland. I picked up some Bison from a butcher. Now that my veggie burgers in good shape, I'm gonna freeze it and play with doing the best simplest Bison Burger after tours over. Perhaps involving Cheddar or Stilton cheese. maybe caramelized or pickled shallots. Ingredients that wont cut thew sweetness from the Bison, which most people don't realize, isn't very gamey at all.



At, De Caro Produce Rob picked up some Nopale cactus, Jicama, and Mango salad...plus some ready made mole enchilada's. Just piles of enchilada's all individually separated. 6 or sop different veg and meat varieties. I got the mole/pork and Julian a black bean

Jicama, Nopale Cactus, and Mango Salad w/ mint



I stopped into Meditteranean Imported Foods and bought a jar of Roll Mops which is pickled herring rolled up and usually skewered with gherkins or mini vidalia onion sitting in vinegar. At the Spotted Pig, we used to serve this cut up into little sushi looking rolls and a dollop of lemony craime fraiche (Cream Freesh for South Park fans). I didn't know how anyone else prepared it...or if I'd even like it. But I knew I liked it. When I was bored during changeover at the Spotted Pig, I snuck a few quick bites of these roll mops in the fridge under the cold station when I had the chance.

When I saw the jar, shipped from Sweden, I had the hankering for a recreation of the herring special...maybe on toast instead. So i picked up a $1 bag of mixed greens, olives, and greek yogurt. Back at the hotel I did a little 'mis en place' on the office table with todays paper. Julian had some spare sourdough  slices and herb butter from. To prepare my vision, I gave a good wipe of the bread with herb butter. tossed some of the mixed greens in a  separate cup with olive oil from the olives. I cut the roll mop into sushi rolls and layer them out lengthwise on the butter and topped with the greens, torn olives and leftover raspberries from yesterday. I didn't like the raspberry. You can try them with some good kettle potato chips. and tuck in!



When you think appetizing, I know pickled herring isn't the first thing to come to mind. but in arctic, gray cleveland all i wanted to do is be inside. I could picture our Nordic relatives back in the day, chowing on this stuff and it didn't seem so nuts. and you know what?...Its good. If you like vinegar, it's good. The salt from the fish and olives and crunch from the chip.

1 comment:

  1. Love it. Raspberries and fish turned into culinary perfection.

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