I took a trip out to Borough Park Brooklyn to see Carlo Forminaso of La Pera Brothers Poultry. I got his number from my boss Jake Dickson when I asked about where I could find the freshest turkey around. Turkey burgers are part of the the lineup of menu items for the Factory PR Bar III [Macy's] event were catering, showcasing meats raised in and around NYC. Carlo [in his thick Italian] tells me over the phone 'feel free to come out here and look your turkey in the eye and fall in love with him...and take him home wich ya.' he told me to come at 5, towards the end of the day.
You walk in and see the range of poultry around. happy pretty chickens, fowl, ducks, rabbits, squab, lamb, goats, fresh eggs, whatever. their lives spent running around a farm in Pennsylvania. and their last few weeks they're sent up to Carlo for those interested in buying meat right from the source.
'everything you see here will be gone in 2 days.'
For 26 years Carlo's had a longstanding relationship with the farmers in Long Island, CT, Upstate NY, PA. I only paid for 2 turkeys. Carlo must've had me come in at 5 for a reason. It was an hour before closing and he ended staying with me way past their closing and de-boned my 2 turkeys and 2 extra chickens and 2 cartons of eggs he threw in for free. he wanted me to try both varieties of chicken [a white-the chicken Americans are used to. and- a French red roaster, which has smaller breasts but much more tender].
'save the bones and extra bits like head & feet for stock. don't throw away anything. the point being to get as much cost out of your bird for what you pay.'
He's called me yesterday wondering how it all turned out.
'I like to get feedback from my customers' he says. And I told him. The red chicken was the most silkiest, most tender chicken Ive ever eaten. plus curry makes everything better...
My goal after tour, when I came back to New York was to work at a good butcher shop. Have you noticed the boutique butcheries have been popping up recently? definitely around nyc, chicago, san fran...and they're offering internships to proud young broke culinary school grads. its very cool and now competitive. And I believe this all started with the slow food movement...which is becoming more like reality than just a movement. something that's definitely not going anywhere. slow food being the opposite of fast food. its goal basically to preserve the traditions of the way our ancestors ate and supported themselves through their community. encouraging farming of plants, seeds, livestock. things that are produced and grown within a days drive.
Back in Cleveland, Chef Sawyer told me about Dickson Farmstand in Chelsea Market when I first inquired about working for a butcher once I got back to nyc. He's good friends with Jake Dickson, who owns the shop. Their criteria states that the entire supply chain [farm to slaughterhouse to point of sale], must be no more than 400 miles long. And that the animals from where our meat comes, must spend their life on a farm. Not CAFO's or feedlots.
Sawyer told me he'd put a good word in if I wanted to work there. If you've ever walked through Chelsea market you recognize this place. There's a waft of smokey goodness coming from the back as you walk past lines of pretty cuts of pink and red meat waiting under bright lights. Its easy to find yourself walking in for no particular reason. Stop in for a homemade hot dog and you'll see what I mean. Try it with a little brown mustard. Apparently they just started adding a touch of pork fat to the meat and it makes a big difference. Like a smoky sausage hotdog but its still a hot dog!
I called up Dicksons and asked about doing their internship program. Josh also called and ask about the internship. she told us both to come in Monday at 11 with our clogs and scrubs and be ready to trail. I guess after a few days of not accidentally sawing off any limbs, we must have passed the trail and became official interns!
Jake came up and introduced himself soon after. Very chill but progressive like he says 'Don't be afraid to ask a lot of questions. Just don't fuck up' . He smiled and he moved on to help the guys bring in the 6 steer coming in.
the idea behind working for a butcher became more important as we ARE going into the business of cooking meat. And different kinds of meat. different cuts. And we want to cook meat that is raised humanely, close to us. slow food. not only because of its moral practices but also since this is the direction food has been going so why NOT get involved?
There's no actual butchering but we watch everything and package the meat. no sharp knives just yet. maybe its a liability thing? We get to follow the process of whats involved when you receive animals wholesale killed a few nights before upstate and arrive fresh to Dicksons Tues morning.
My favorite part is catching a race btwn Jose and Aldo, the two badass knife slinging latino's who are the backbone of the butchering that goes on here. Today they are seeing who can de-bone a pigs shoulder the quickest. Aldo's quick but Jose won today.
In the meantime, Josh and I kicked off our new business, Groundburgers, and we booked our first party together this past wednesday. A summer bbq themed event sponsored by Macys Bar III
farm to table fast food
for the event we did 3 burgers. beef, turkey, and veggie [compost] burgers..purple peruvian chips, coleslaw, and pickles. Everything homemade but the pickles. Showcasing the beef and lamb from Dicksons Farmstand, the turkey from La Pera Brothers poultry in Brooklyn, the brioche buns from Balthazar. Most of the produce and cheese from Manhattan Fruit Exchange.
Ground's recipe's are Inspired both from Josh's family diner growing up outside Boston and my experiences with food. My parents [having dabbled with Mennonites, they canned year round and raised and butchered rabbits) and also the kitchens Ive worked [ spotted pig, permanent brunch, greenhouse tavern, momofuku ] Think April Bloomfield and Alice Waters meets fast food. So instead of tomato and onion on your burger, replace it with minced shallots in vinegar. add some homemade lemon mayo and top with some creamy roquefort cheese.
Some shots from the event...
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| trim burgers with roquefort & vinegar shallots |
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| kohlrabi slaw with apples, pecans, sesame vinaigrette |
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| deviled eggs. house made mayo, candy bacon, chive flowers |
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| mexican baby corn. lime mayo, chili, cotija, cilantro |
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| Ben of Bees Knees Bakery |
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| Josh and Billy |
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| women of ramscale |
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| Turkey & home made apple sauce & fennel burger. leek and sage stuffing |
My friend since high school Justin had his BIG GAY wedding up in Stony Point NY this weekend...right on the Hudson just past West Point. I looked around to see so many bright and happy people under one roof, dancing and singing and I almost forget that a lot of people don't think they should have the same rights as straight couples. It doesn't make me upset angry so much as 'why are we still having this conversation??'
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| Justin & Morgan |